I will never stay at a hostel again! (Jk I literally stayed in an 8-bunk hostel room days after the chateau, but you know.)

Departure

One Friday night in mid-October my host dad came home around 8 p.m. and told us to pack our bags: we were headed to the grandparents’ chateau. As one does. We hadn’t planned on leaving until the next day, but it’s a spontaneous household, so we took off in the night after an hour of chaotic packing.

So that’s how I found myself rolling through the dark countryside at 10 p.m. on the way to the south of France, eating a picnic dinner with a seven-year-old sleeping on my shoulder.

It was cozy in that car. I felt like a part of the family, listening to Emilie’s dance music and chatting with my host parents. They told me that they’re really happy to have me as their au pair and that the kids love me and my French is improving and it was all very reassuring to hear. I’m constantly telling the kids to do things they don’t want to do (take a shower, eat zucchini, put their shoes away, go to bed) so I honestly wasn’t positive if they liked me until that point.

I was also proud to hear that I was speaking French noticeably better than when I had arrived. Even so, I’ve recently decided to push myself harder with French— now that I’m no longer a college student I feel a bit untethered. My purpose isn’t as defined, so I’ve decided to make learning French my main goal while I’m here.

Arrival

We arrived at the chateau around midnight, rumbling over a rough dirt road and spiraling into a maze of buildings. I was in awe when we entered the house.

It’s absolutely stunning. Its floors are mosaic and stone, its walls covered in artfully faded and peeling wallpaper in hues of gold and mint and dark green and cream. All throughout the house are old portraits and oil paintings, glossy wood wardrobes, eclectic furniture and vintage knick knacks. In the past whenever I’ve walked through rooms like these it’s been with a tour guide, so it was incredible to actually stay at such a place.

If you told me a year ago that I would spend a week at a chateau in the French countryside eating homecooked meals made by a French grandmother, I would have been skeptical (but hopeful!). But as it was, the kids were on holiday and it was my duty to accompany them. See, they have two weeks off from school about every 6-8 weeks (because, France) so I watch the kids for one week and have the other week off to travel. For my work week, I stayed with the kids at the grandparents’ chateau while the parents headed back to Lyon to work.

Roughing it

It was nice to spend time with the kids in a new place; without school and strict bedtimes the days took on an easy quality. Not to mention that normally I cook for the kids, but at the chateau the grandmother prepared the meals— and I was more than happy to let her because she is a wonder in the kitchen.

Over the course of the week she made, among other things, duck in a stewy sauce, potato tartiflette, cold eggs in jelly, lasagna, rotisserie chicken, fish, soup, homemade chocolate mousse, and crepes. Plus there was always wine. Food is la passion de ma vie, so I was starry-eyed at every meal.

Sunday afternoon I put on rubber boots and walked along the property. The estate has been in the family since 1850, and is complete with apple orchards, vineyards, and a winery. I followed trails through the woods, around a pond, over a creek, all the time crunching over layers of gold leaves. There was a surreal quality about the place, and when I was in the fields I felt like I was in a dream. The sun was warm and the wind whipped around me and everywhere tree branches bobbed and the tall grass rippled in the breeze.

Day trips

I have weekends off, so the day after we arrived I went to Arles for the afternoon because it was just 20 minutes away from the chateau. It was quiet because the weather was gloomy, but the city was beautiful. It’s filled with tiny cobblestone alleyways and winding streets and pastel doors framed by vines.

I saw all the major highlights— the Roman amphitheater and Van Gogh Garden and big church— and spent a couple hours in the Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques. I really enjoyed that museum. It was tranquil and friendly and filled with interesting artifacts.

One afternoon the grandparents took the kids to a museum and I wandered around Nîmes. It’s another Roman city, just like Arles, and there’s not only an amphitheater here too but also a beautiful temple. I was only there for two hours, but I’m excited to come back and see more.

I left the following Friday for a week in the UK, and when I said goodbye to the kids they hugged me and said they would miss me and it was so sweet I felt a little teary-eyed. I’m really lucky to be where I am, with the people I’m with. Thanksgiving isn’t for a couple more weeks, but my time at the chateau was one of gratitude: I felt so grateful to be staying in such a beautiful place, eating delicious food and holding conversations in French with the grandparents and spending time with kids I’m growing fond of. I have a lot to be thankful for.